Ask ten collectors whether you should grade a card and you'll get ten answers. Grading can turn a £20 card into a £200 one, or cost you £20 to put a number on a card worth exactly what it was raw. This guide explains how grading works, compares the main companies for UK collectors, and gives you a simple way to decide what's worth sending.
What is card grading?
Grading means sending a card to an independent company that checks it's genuine, assesses its condition and seals it in a tamper-proof plastic case, called a slab, with a grade, usually out of 10. That grade is a trusted third-party verdict, so a buyer knows exactly what they're getting without holding the card.
The main grading companies
- PSA: the biggest name, especially for sports cards. High PSA grades usually fetch the strongest resale prices.
- CGC: hugely popular for Pokémon and TCG, growing fast in sports, and has a London office for UK submissions.
- Beckett (BGS): known for sub-grades for centering, corners, edges and surface, and the famous Black Label 10.
- SGC: respected for vintage cards, with a distinctive black-border slab.
- ACE: a UK-based grader with pricing in pounds, popular with UK collectors who want faster, cheaper turnaround.
The same grade from different companies doesn't always sell for the same price. For modern sports cards, PSA usually carries the biggest premium on resale.
What the grades mean
- 10 (Gem Mint): as close to perfect as it gets.
- 9 (Mint): excellent, with only a tiny flaw.
- 8 (Near Mint–Mint): very nice, with minor imperfections.
- 7 and below: increasing signs of wear.
The jump in value between grades is rarely smooth. On a desirable card, a 10 can be worth several times a 9, which is why grading is a gamble as well as an investment.
How much does grading cost in the UK?
Prices change often, so check before you submit. These are the entry-level options at the time of writing (November 2026):
| Company | How UK collectors submit | Entry price per card | Typical turnaround |
|---|---|---|---|
| PSA | Through a UK authorised dealer or group submitter | Around £55–£65 via UK dealers (PSA Standard is US$59.99) | Around 90–100 business days, plus shipping |
| CGC | Direct to CGC's London office, priced in pounds | £16.80 inc. VAT (Bulk, min. 25 cards, up to £400 value) | Around 50 working days (estimate) |
| ACE | Direct, UK-based, priced in pounds | £18 (Basic) | Around 45 business days; faster tiers available |
| Beckett (BGS) | Direct to the US or via a UK dealer | Priced in US dollars | Varies by tier |
A few things to know:
- PSA's cheaper "Value" tiers were paused in 2026 because of a huge backlog, which is why the cheapest PSA route is currently much more expensive than CGC or ACE.
- PSA has announced a London receiving centre, which should make submitting cheaper and quicker for UK collectors once it opens. At the time of writing it isn't open yet.
- Add the extras: postage and insurance both ways, dealer fees, and possible import VAT and handling fees on slabs returned from the US.
- Turnaround times are estimates, not guarantees, and they start when the grader logs your order.
Does grading add value? Do the maths
Grading adds value when the price of a high grade clearly beats what the card is worth raw plus all your costs. A quick way to check:
- Look up recent sold prices (not asking prices) for the card raw, and in a 9 and a 10.
- Add up your total cost per card: grading fee, share of postage and insurance, and any dealer fee.
- Be honest about the likely grade. Most modern cards straight from the pack grade 8 to 10, not all 10s.
Example: a rookie worth £40 raw sells for £60 in a 9 and £180 in a 10. If grading costs you £25 all-in, a 10 is a big win, a 9 roughly breaks even, and an 8 loses you money. If the same card were only worth £5 raw, grading would almost never pay.
Grading usually adds the most to:
- Key rookie cards of top players
- Autographs and low-numbered parallels, including 1/1s
- Vintage cards in good condition, where authentication matters as much as the grade
When to grade, and when to leave it raw
Consider grading when the card is valuable and in excellent condition, a high grade would clearly lift its price, you want to sell a big card and give buyers confidence, or you want to protect and authenticate a card for the long term.
Leave it raw when it's a common or low-value card, it has a visible flaw such as a soft corner or off-centre print, or it's a personal favourite you simply want to enjoy.
How to prepare cards for grading
- Check each card under a bright light for surface scratches, print lines, centering and corners before you pay to grade it.
- Sleeve every card in a fresh penny sleeve, then use a semi-rigid card saver or toploader as the submission service asks.
- Don't clean or press cards. Altered cards can be rejected or marked as such.
- Record everything: take photos and keep a list of what you sent, with its declared value.
Protect first, decide later
Whether or not you ever grade a card, condition is decided the moment you pull it. Put anything you might grade into a sleeve and toploader straight away, and keep it flat, cool and out of sunlight. You can always grade later; you can't un-bend a corner. Pick up sleeves, toploaders and storage in our supplies.
Common questions
Is PSA better than CGC or ACE?
For modern sports cards, PSA slabs usually sell for the most. CGC and ACE are cheaper and faster for UK collectors and are well respected, especially for Pokémon and TCG. If you're grading to sell a high-value sports card, PSA is usually the safest choice. If you're grading to protect or display, CGC or ACE can be better value.
How long does grading take?
At the time of writing, roughly 9 to 10 weeks for CGC UK and ACE entry tiers, and several months for PSA's cheapest available tier, plus shipping each way. Faster tiers cost more.
Can I grade a card straight from a pack?
Yes, and that's often when it's in the best condition. Sleeve it immediately and check it carefully before sending.
Does grading guarantee a profit?
No. A lower-than-hoped grade can leave a card worth less than its raw value plus fees. Only grade when the numbers make sense.
Keep reading: Hobby vs retail vs blaster · How sports card breaks work. Looking for your next big pull? Browse new releases and our bestsellers.